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Useful info for your salt water tank

“How to remove salt water creep from your aquarium

Salt Water Aquarium

Salt Water Aquarium
How to remove salt water creep from your aquarium

User-Submitted Article

Salt water aquariums make a stunning addition to any home. While they are rumored to be overly difficult to keep, most salt water aquariums can be maintained with regular maintenance and a little bit of effort.

Difficulty: Easy


Things You’ll Need:

  • Glass Cleaner
  • Washcloth
  • Aquarium
  1. 1

    You should remove the salt creep during each aquarium salt water tank water change. Dampen your wash cloth with plain water and wipe the salt creep on the inside rim of the tank, lid and lighting.

  2. 2

    Spray some glass cleaner on the wash cloth, and wipe the front and sides of the fish tank, where you see salt creep.

  3. 3

    Repeat the process with the back of the fish tank, to ensure that your tank looks shiny and clean, and that there is no more salt creep. Enjoy your clean tank.

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Tips & Warnings

  • Do not spray glass cleaner on or near the tank- the chemicals in glass cleaner can easily drift into the tank, killing your aquarium animals. Use caution.”

Take a look at this stunning photography of coral, worms and mushrooms!  Think of the possibilities for your salt water tank.

Seas and oceans are breathtakingly beautiful part of this world. They are full of life, colors, appeal, and attract art and nature lovers. Deep colored water, lovely and marvelous fish, amazing corals, worms, mushrooms and sea animals  of brilliant colors make the nature lovers and photographers dive in to relish and savor beauty of this wonderful and magnificent part of the world.

10. Light Bulb Tunicate/Light Bulb Sea Squirt

Light Bulb Sea Squirt (Scientific name: Clavelina Lepadiformis) is a colonial sea squirt. The transparent tunic of the worm shows the yellow or white internal organs. This gives them the glow of a light bulb and hence they got their name. They are mostly found along the Norwegian Coast. Their colonies can also be seen in the Atlantic Ocean, the North Sea, the English Channel and in the Mediterranean Sea. They sit together with a loose binding at the base. They are cylindrical and have a 4cm long elongation. They grow in late winters and reproduce in summers.

9. Christmas Tree Worms

Christmas Tree Worms (Scientific name: Spirobranchus Giganteus) are small, tube-building  worms belonging to the family Serpulidae. These attractive corals come in a variety of colors ranging from yellow and orange to blue and white. They are widely distributed throughout the world’s tropical oceans. The worm’s multicolored spirals actually are highly derived respiratory structures. It lacks specialized appendages for movement or swimming and does not move outside it’s tube. They have two beautiful crowns which give them Christmas tree appearance and hence they got their name. These crowns are specialized mouth appendages of the worm. They are very sensitive to disturbances. Even a shadow causes an instant reaction. It’s tube is it’s home.

8. Bubble Coral

Bubble Corals (Scientific name: Plerogyra Sinuosa) are beautiful and extinct water filled bubbles and this property gives them their beautiful name. They need light to inflate and expand. When they expand during daytime, they look like bubbles, pearls or grapes. It has a hard skeleton which is visible when they deflate. These corals are extremely fragile and puncture with touch. Care should be taken while handling and collecting them because of their long tentacles. They are mostly found in the Red Sea, Indian Ocean and the Pacific Ocean.

7. Open Brain Coral

Open Brain Coral (Scientific name: Trachyphyllia Geoffroyi) is an oval shaped heavy skeleton with a conical base. These are also known as Folded Brain or Crater Coral. They are large polyp stony (LPS) with usually 2 to 3 polyps. The beautiful corals are red, yellow, brown, green or blue in color. It has a shape of number 8 or an hour glass shape. Tentacles come out of the mouth at evening and serve the protection purpose. The are up to 80 mm in length with 2 to 3 mouths. It is photosynthetic and requires no feeding. The red ones need less lightning than the green ones. They are easy to be collected as they prefer attaching their body to reefs, shells and dead corals.

6. Cup Coral

Cup corals (Family name: Dendrophyllidae ) are beautiful corals produced in deep water. They are non-reef building species and live on zooplankton. They extend beautiful translucent tentacles at night. Cup corals are found in extremely cold water throughout the world. Cup corals are also known as flowers of the sea and are famous due to their brilliant colors and bouquet formation. They usually take the formation of cups and plate. This coral makes its own outer skeleton of limestone.

5. Leather Mushroom Coral

Leather mushroom coral (Scientific name: Sarcophtyton sp) belongs to the family Alcyoniidae. Other common names are Green Toadstool Coral, Umbrella Coral, Elephant Ear Leather Coral, and Toadstool Coral. Like other corals they span a wide range of colors including brown, cream and dark tan. These beautiful mushrooms having the look of a partially folded leather sheet put out flower stalk-like tentacles during nighttime and when feeding in water. They house colonies of marine animals which in exchange provide them with nutrients.

4. Finger Coral

Finger Corals (Scientific name: Porites Compressa) are beautiful corals resembling fingers also known as Commonly referred to as Thin Finger Leather Coral, Knobby Finger Leather Coral, Devil’s Hand/Finger Leather Coral, Dead Man’s Finger Coral, Bushy Soft Coral, Chili Pepper Coral, Cabbage Leather Coral, Trough Coral, Sinularia Finger Thick and Lobed Leather Coral. They are naturally found in a number of shades including brown, tan, yellow, green, pink and gray. They originally belong to Indian and Pacific Ocean. These unique corals have an average size of 1-2 inches. They take their nutrition from an algae with the name of zooxanthellae. This algae hosts within its body and depends on photosynthesis.  They also take their nutrients from micro plankton. Their appearance mainly depends on the strength of the ocean currents.

3. Feather Duster Worms/Tube Dwelling Worms

Who can believe that these beautiful feathers with marvelous colors are worms known as Feather Duster Worms. Feather Duster Worm(Scientific name: Sabellestarte cf. sanctijosephi) is a social worm with the look of an old fashioned feather duster. Except for the head part, the rest of the worm lives in a tube made of mucous and sand or sediment. The worm’s head sticks out of the tube with two crowns of long feathery gills are the respiratory and feeding organs of the worms. These are tiny and quickly hide inside the tube on sensing danger. Beautiful red, orange or brown sponges surrounding the worms add to their beauty.

2. Ricordea Mushrooms

These mushrooms spread in the sea  like paint colors in a painter’s palate. They are available in many charming colors including red, orange, purple and green; red being the rarest and most expensive of all. Ricordeas of different colors require different treatment and care. Green Ricordea is a specie of anemone mushroom coral with raised dots that line its surface. It has vibrant green coloring.The Atlantic and Caribbean species of green ricordea are referred to as R. florida, while Pacific species of green ricordea are referred to as R. yuma. Green Ricodea is a hard mushroom with slow deterioration. The Orange Ricordea are found in relatively large number. Ricordea yuma  is found in the Pacific and Indian Oceans, and Ricordea florida in the Caribbean Ocean. The Red Ricordea are the exotic and prized ones with more bulgy appearance and bright colors. They are sensitive and not hard like the other species. They require care while handling. Minor tear in red ricordea mushrooms results in bacterial infection.

1. Clove Polyps

Clove Polyps (Family name: Clavulariidae) also known as Glove Polyps or The Clavularia Polyp Corals are soft polyps with eight tentacles. These magnificent polyps are available in Indian-Pacific Ocean in brown, tan, pink, white and green colors. The small ones are clove polyps whereas the large ones are referred to as the glove polyps. Whatever the size may be they have 8 leaf like tentacles. They feed on iodine, mysis shrimp, micro-plankton and trace elements. They form mats or clumps and require medium light level. They develop and grow rapidly on reefs and stones.

Setting Up a Seahorse Tank

Always been interested in seahorses.  Never tried them myself.  Ever tried them in your salt water tank

“Seahorses are one of the most graceful creatures you can keep on your tank. But they are also very fragile and just a basic salt water fish tank setup won’t be enough to keep them happy and healthy. In this small article we will explore the differences between a standard tank and a seahorse tank.

Starting with the size of the tank, unlike for other saltwater creatures, bigger is not always better. For dwarf seahorses you need to provide nano tanks, which are just 2 to 20 gallons, but even for standard tanks you shouldn’t go above 60 gallons because seahorses are slow swimmers and won’t be able to reach food in large tanks.

And the format of the tank should also be different. Usually tanks are wide, but for a seahorse the taller the better. At the very least you should have three times the length of the seahorse, but if you can get one even taller (or build one yourself).

As for the floor of the tank, I prefer sand, which is better for bacteria (necessary because seahorses are messy eaters). Also use a lot of rocks, algae or trunks because seahorses need places to perch – if they don’t have any they will cling to aquarium equipment, which may hurt them, or die of exhaustion.

Some keepers like to have a feeding station, which is a part of the tank where they feed their seahorses. Like I said, seahorses are very messy eaters and if you only feed them on an easy to clean area with lots of objects for them to perch on it will make cleaning the tank easier. I prefer to have a crew of cleaners (usually snails) and get good filtration.

Which brings us to the pump. Be careful because seahorses can’t fight strong currents and they prefer tanks with little turbulence. Some seahorses have even died because they were sucked by stronger pumps.

If you want more tips on setting up tanks visit Saltwater Fish Tank Setup where you will find advice on setting up the perfect tank for your saltwater fish and invertebrates.

Article Source:

— Lionfish, voracious eaters who are vaccuming up sealife from offshore reefs, have moved through the Jupiter Inlet and are 2 1/2 miles into the Loxahatchee River.

Reseachers call lionfish voracious predators that eat tiny shrimp, one of the food sources for juvenile grouper, snook, mullet and other sealife, as well as the small fish themselves.

“Lionfish are a game changer that could totally transform the ecosystem,” said Bud Howard, director of water resources for the Loxahatchee River District.

This is the first time the predators have been documented inside any river on the Atlantic Coast from the Outer Banks of North Carolina to Venezuela, said Craig Layman, a biology professor at Florida International University in Miami.”  To read full article click here.

“I believe I have reduced the Nitrate level in my tank dramatically from 25 mg/L down to 0.2 mg/L simply by adding four spiral compact fluorescent bulbs from the hardware store. This post describes in detail all the steps I’ve taken to reduce my Nitrate level. The chart below illustrates my Nitrate measurements and is annotated with the dates of various things that I tried along the way. Click on the chart to enlarge.

From Paul’s Reef

I’ve been recording my tank parameters since July 1st of this year. I have been most interested in reducing my Nitrate level. The Nitrate level in my tank was staying around 25 mg/L for several months. The level didn’t go down by reducing feedings to once a day. Finally, I broke down and added a sump and refugium with a deep sand bed on August 2′nd. That really did nothing to reduce my Nitrate level over the course of a month. I added Chaeto algae and illuminated my refugium on a reverse light cycle on 10/9. On 10/25 the Nitrate level was still at 25 mg/L. Around this time I became concerned that my light output may be too low. The tank looked dim compared to my refugium which was lit with a single 6500K spiral CF fluorescent bulb. Perhaps some of the problems I was experiencing were due to low light levels rather than elevated Nitrate levels. Being on a budget I decided to purchase four 26W 6500K spiral CF bulbs from Lowes along with four clip-0n shop light fixtures with reflectors. So, by going the cheap route I was able to add 104W of daylight illumination for about $30. These were installed at the back of the tank on October 25′th. At the same time I ordered replacement PC bulbs for my hood. The replacement bulbs were installed on 10/29. All the while I continued to measure the Nitrate level as shown in the graph above.

The bulb I’m using is shown below. It is a 26W 6500K Bright Effects bulb purchased from Lowe’s. It has the numbers BE26T3/D and E170197 printed on the label.”  To read the rest of this article click here.  For more on salt water tanks click here.

From Paul’s Reef – Apr 15, 2008″

What experience do you have with coral fragging? Found short infomative segment with a handy tip!  Chopsticks?
Watch this tutorial on fragging corals. And go here for more on salt water corals

Amazing Aquarium Designs

“Everybody knows what a standard aquarium looks like. Rectangular with lights on top.

There’s some more creative designs out there, however. Check these out:”

Salt water

Water parameters for your tank

Here’s a handy excerpt about parameters for your salt water tank


The list remains similar and I will bypass descriptions that are in common with freshwater test kits.

[1] Ammonia Test Kit; this should be 0 as in FW

[2] KH Test Kit; you do not need a GH Test Kit for saltwater. KH (or alkalinity as is called in marine aquariums) should be over 240 ppm (13 dKH)

[3] PH High Range Test Kit; your pH should be between 8.2 – 8.4

[4] Hydrometer; this instrument tests the specific gravity of aquarium water (in simple terms the amount of salts). There are two types; the floating glass hydrometers which are more fragile, but also more accurate or the simple needle hydrometer that you fill with water. It is important with both types of hydrometers to clean these with white vinegar (then rinse thoroughly) to prevent hard water buildup which will then cause inaccurate readings.

[4] Nitrate Test Kit; Nitrates are best under 40 for marine fish aquariums and under 20 (even less if possible) for reef aquariums

[5] Calcium Test Kit; this takes the place of the GH Test Kit in freshwater.

Calcium is important to ALL marine life (this includes freshwater too as it is often sadly overlooked), however it is absolutely essential for proper coral growth in marine aquariums. Bio-availability is also essential, Sea Chem Reef Calcium Polygluconate is probably one of the best, most bio-available calcium supplements available for marine aquariums.

Your marine Calcium levels should be between 400-450 ppm

[6] Nitrite Test Kit; this should be 0 as in FW

[7] Magnesium Test Kit; Magnesium is an essential part of chlorophyll, which is necessary for photosynthesis, plants, including algae and the corals. Maintaining a correct magnesium concentration is very important, and is indirectly responsible for fast coral and calcareous algae growth by virtue of making the maintenance of correct calcium and alkalinity figures possible. Magnesium is depleted by algae and by the use of excessive Kalkwasser. Magnesium is what binds Calcium Carbonate in solution, if levels are low useable calcium levels will also drop. Poor choices of Marine Buffers can further exasperate this problem, this why I STRONGLY recommend Sea Chem Marine Buffer for adjusting alkalinity in marine aquariums (and EVEN freshwater aquariums) as this product has Magnesium, Calcium, and sodium bicarbonate in the proper ratios.

Magnesium levels in marine aquariums should be between 1200 and 1400 ppm.

[8] Redox Meter; as in freshwater, I recommend -300 mV, except Redox is more important in marine aquariums.

[9] Phosphate Test Kit; as in freshwater this should near 0. High phosphate levels in marine aquariums can play havoc with the health and growth of live coral (Phosphates can block the absorption of important minerals)

For the Full Article, icluding pictures and more links, please visit the site in the resource box below.

Related Aquarium Test Kits Articles”